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| Big peak, here I come New book release is your ticket to the top By GREGORY FOLEY The Mountaineers Books, based in Seattle, has released an updated edition of “Climbing: Training for Peak Performance.” (272 pp., $18.95.) It is available at select bookstores or through www.mountaineersbooks.org. For many purist climbers, the evolution of mountaineering from a fringe pursuit of the wholly devoted to vacation fodder for amateur weekend warriors is a bitter pill to swallow. The edgethat element of doing something few others dare to trywas lost. And, to add to the anguish, true mountaineers had to venture farther and farther from home to find solace in the rocks and snow. Like it or not, high-altitude mountaineering has become big business. The fact is, however, that pushing one's way to the roof of the world is still no easy task. Clear evidence of that came last month when "Today" show correspondent Ann Curry was forced to abort an attempt at the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro, all because some of her team members came down with altitude sickness. Enter the second edition of "Climbing: Training for Peak Performance," a new release from The Mountaineers Books. Written by Colorado-based climber and writer Clyde Soles, a veteran of Himalayan high peaks, the book is part of The Mountaineers' "Outdoor Expert Series." For anyone aspiring to climb high mountains, "Training for Peak Performance" could provide the added edge that gets you safely to the summit. Packed into its 272 pages are details on exercises to improve performance, nutrition and supplements, injury prevention and training programs suited for various climbers' goals. Want to find out about whether the latest health craze is based on fact or myth? Wondering what food is the best body fuel to stock at high camp? Looking for ways to fit a training regimen into your busy work schedule? It's all here. In the new second edition, Soles incorporates many of the findings of the latest research on everything from carbohydrates and fat to working out in ways that will keep you in the mountains and out of the doctor's office. Though the amount of information in the book might seem daunting to some, it is written in a clear, simple style that allows quick, easy absorption. Mountaineer Jon Krakauer, author of best-sellers "Into Thin Air" and "Into the Wild," praised the book as a valuable training tool for climbers of all levels. Indeed, it is. "Training for Peak Performance" won't go to the gym for you, and it won't make the air in the high Rockies or the Himalayas any thicker. But for those who don't mind sweating a little and minding their diet, it might just make those last steps to the top less arduous. |
| ARE YOU FIT TO CLIMB?
Any serious mountaineer will appreciate this updated Bible of climbing-specific training Last month, the 2nd Edition of Climbing: Training for Peak Performance (The Mountaineers Books) by Boulder, Colorado resident, climber, photographer, writer, and all-around good guy, Clyde Soles, went on sale. A copy arrived on my desk, and I decided to see what, exactly, warranted an update from Soles’ first edition which came out, geez, a little over five years ago. I mean, it’s climbing--whether it’s up rock or an ice field, the sport’s physiological requirements haven’t changed much in decades, right? One quick glance through its pages though, and I realized I was wrong. Among the more intriguing additions to this update is a thorough chapter on “Improving Altitude Performance.” In it Soles goes into detail about what happens to the body at higher altitudes (starting at 8,000 to 10,000 feet) and doles out some interesting recommendations: When it came to the exercises I also noticed a big change. There were noticeably more core and functional strength exercises and fewer classic weight-training ones. He’s now included kettlebells, resistance tubing, even gymnastics rings into the mix. But Soles’ fundamental message has remained unchanged: you can’t become a stronger climber by simply climbing. You have to push your body in the gym beyond its ability to handle your bodyweight, and even the weight of your body plus a heavy pack. It's a fundamental approach that every athlete takes to train for their sport, and Soles does a smart job showing us that climbers and mountaineers should consider themselves true athletes, not just recreational enthusiasts. Whether you’ve got Rainier or Whitney on your life list, or a thru-hike planned for next spring, you’d do well to check out Soles’ book and take a crack at his program. Grant Davis, Backpacker Magazine |
| Whatever your talent, experience, and ambition, if you climb, you would do well to read Clyde Soles' training manual. This book will allow you to pull down harder, last longer, and have more fun while you're at it. Jon Krakauer Solid research and an easy read. Clyde's recipe for climbing fitness is a refreshing combination of movement, streangth training, psychological capacity, and appropriate nutrition. But there are no instant miracles; none of his words will mean anything if you won't do the work. Do you have the will? Mark Twight I've been poring over your book... reminded each time how much work you put into it and how little most readers will appreciate the effort. Just know that I do. Mark Twight |
| If you are a climber, hiker, hill walker, skier, mountain biker or anyone that enjoys activity in the outdoors there will be something in this book that you will benefit from. Even if you are simply interested in general fitness there is much here that will help you improve your performance.
Chris Highcock, Conditioning Research |
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Clyde Soles has written a number of excellent climbing books including another Mountaineers Outdoor Expert series title, Expedition Planning. The 2008 second edition of Climbing: Training for Peak Performance updates his 2002 effort with "30% more content." Sounds like a breakfast cereal ad, but have no fear, this is much more substantial. TfPP bills itself as "a book for climbers with limited time, pre-existing injuries, or - you know - a life." The book covers a dizzying array of topics: nutrition, physical conditioning, mental preparation, flexibility, recovery and even specific routines for specific pursuits. A particularly helpful chapter is Climbing at Altitude, which includes quick hits on various supplements and drugs, worthwhile and not. Evidently Clyde has nothing better to do than read through tons of reports and studies and synthesize them for our benefit. He does a good job of sticking with advice that is scientifically grounded and rarely if ever ventures onto evidence-scarce ground. He takes pains to point out common myths and misconceptions in sections with titles like "Diet Chicanery," "Dubious Supplements," and "Resistance Training Myths." There are even anatomical charts. Overall, TfPP is a valuable synthesis of state-of-the-art advice across all the important areas of athletic training related to climbing and other outdoor pursuits. Gear Flogger |
| This book is for climbers of all ages, abilities, and interests who wish to improve their performance. Whether you are a weekend warrior who enjoys moderate routes and wants to climb harder classics, a mountaineer interested in moving faster at altitude, an ice climber who wants to move more efficiently over frozen terrain, or a big wall climber who want to increase your stamina, you will find what is needed to reach the next level. |
Chapter 1 Performance FundamentalsPerformance Fundamentals Chapter 2 Nutrition Foundation
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